American fried: adventures of a happy eater by Calvin Trillin
Trillin is just as serious about food as some of the more earnest writers on this list, but also hysterically funny. His main thesis is that the local food usually is best, not the "continental cuisine" served in the pretentious restaurants found everywhere which he names generically "La Maison de la Casa House". This book is the first in his Tummy Trilogy, which moves on to Alice, Let's Eat, and finishes with Third Helpings -- a delectable three-course meal, all in our collection.
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